HDS01-25, trip log, Arctic Ocean - Fair Isle, Jan Mayen, Spitsbergen

This afternoon marked the beginning of our grand adventure as we stepped aboard Hondius, our expedition vessel bound for the Arctic wilderness of Svalbard. Moored in the Dutch port of Vlissingen, the ship loomed large and ready—our floating home for the next twelve days. For some, the journey began with a small challenge: conquering the steep gangway, duffel bags in tow and excitement in the air. But one by one, we all made it aboard, eager and wide-eyed.

After settling into our cabins, we gathered in the ship’s heart - the observation lounge - for our first official meeting: the safety briefing. There’s something surreal about donning a bright orange life vest while imagining polar bears and glaciers, but the drill was a rite of passage, and by the end, we felt a little more like seasoned explorers.

With formalities complete, it was time for a toast. Glasses clinked and smiles widened during the Captain’s Welcome Cocktail, held once again in the lounge, now buzzing with conversation and anticipation. Outside the windows, the coastline of Vlissingen slowly began to recede—we were finally underway, charting a course north toward Aberdeen, our next port of call.

Dinner was a lively affair, filled with laughter and introductions. As twilight set in, many of us were already out on deck, scanning the waves for the first glimpse of wildlife. The day closed with a stunning sunset painting the sky in shades of gold and lavender—a perfect curtain-raiser for the days of adventure ahead.

Our expedition has begun, and with it, the promise of icy landscapes, untamed nature, and memories waiting to be made.

We were awoken this morning by our expedition leader Chris Long inviting us to enjoy the day over the PA system. The rock and roll of the ship we experienced last night had given way to a gentle swaying this morning and even some sunshine! As we started to prepare for the day, we soon heard hotel manager Albert over the PA inviting us to breakfast. We enjoyed a delicious buffet before it was time to start with our first activity of the day which was to collect our muck boots which would be needed for the wet landings ahead. After that it was time for our first lecture of the voyage presented by our expedition guide Meike called “An introduction to birds of the North Atlantic”. Many of us joined to see what we might find in these waters.

As the day progressed the weather improved even further to beautiful sunshine and a gentle, warm breeze encouraging most of us to head out onto the decks to watch for wildlife. The North Sea didn’t disappoint with Northern gannets, Common Guillemots, Black-legged Kittiwakes and even a couple of puffins passing by the ship. A lucky few of us managed to spot a minke whale and an unidentified dolphin as well. It’s just the beginning!

At 12:30 we attended a delicious buffet lunch before heading outside again to enjoy the sunshine, we can see the coast of England now and a place called Scarborough Rock. At 15:30 we were invited to the lounge for our final lecture of the day by our expedition guide Paolo entitled “Aberdeen Lighthhouse” giving some insight before our arrival in Aberdeen tomorrow.

We spent the rest of the day wildlife watching outside or relaxing inside the ship until 18:30 when we were invited to our first daily recap. We were introduced to our Captain, Jan who welcomed us all aboard this wonderful journey, then our expedition leader Chris gave us the plan for tomorrow followed by a short presentation by our expedition leader Andi who gave us 10 wonderful facts about Aberdeen. At 19:00 it was time to head to the restaurant for a plated dinner prepared by the amazing Hondius galley team. Soon it was time to head to the cabins after a great first day at sea. Tomorrow we will start our first activity day in Aberdeen!

This morning, we arrived in Aberdeen Harbour aboard Oceanwide’s expedition cruise ship Hondius, en route to Svalbard in the Arctic. Aberdeen marked our first stop—nestled on Scotland’s northeast coast, the "Granite City" welcomed us with its characteristic grey stone buildings and the unmistakable sound of bagpipes.

As we disembarked, we were greeted in true Scottish style: a bagpiper, drummer, and a highland dancer brought energy to the quayside, giving us a memorable and heartfelt welcome. One of Oceanwide’s local guides, Bill Smith, met us at the harbour. Bill, a lively character full of wit and local tales, immediately set the tone for the day ahead.

Our first destination was the dramatic coastal cliffs at Bullers of Buchan, a natural amphitheatre teeming with birdlife. The hike around the cliffs was invigorating, with sea spray in the air and calls of seabirds echoing around us. Highlights included sightings of puffins, kittiwakes, northern fulmars, razorbills, common guillemots, shags, gannets, and even a few rock doves. For any birder, this was a true feast for the senses.

By midday, we continued to the Sands of Forvie, an expansive and wind-swept reserve of dunes and heathland. Here, we observed more seabirds and were lucky enough to see a grey seal colony basking along the shore—an unforgettable sight.

Our final stop was the charming village of Fittie (Footdee), a hidden gem tucked away at the edge of the city. This old fishing village, with its compact cottages and quirky touches, offered a glimpse into Aberdeen’s maritime heritage. A walking tour through its lanes gave us insight into the lives of the fishermen and their families who once lived here.

Returning to Hondius, we met new fellow travelers who would join us for the remainder of our Arctic journey. As we sailed out of the harbour, dolphins surfaced nearby—a fitting farewell from Aberdeen’s waters.

Next stop: Fair Isle.

Our morning started with a sunny and beautiful approach to the southern coast of Fair Isle. We headed to our landing site on the Eastern side of the island where we knew the puffin colony was only a short walk away. The zodiac ride in was smooth and swarmed with puffins in flight.

Our morning started with a sunny and beautiful approach to the southern coast of Fair Isle. We headed to our landing site on the Eastern side of the island where we knew the puffin colony was only a short walk away. The zodiac ride in was smooth and swarmed with puffins in flight.

Upon landing we all started exploring the green rolling landscape. Some of us went directly to the nearest hilltop to watch the puffins in their burrows, others decided to walk, or catch a ride with the locals, down the scenic road to the community center where hot coffee and locally made handcrafts were bering offered. Others explored the iconic lighthouse, the museum, and the bird observatory.

Late afternoon it was time to head back to Hondius, which was waiting for us directly outside the harbor. The weather was beautiful, but the swell on the water had picked up and made the ride and disembarkment of the zodiac a bit exciting, giving us a good taste of how quickly the conditions could change - great practice as we soon head further north. Our zodiac drives met the challenge with a smile and soon we were all on board for recap and a well deserved dinner.

After dinner we joined Brenya, Rustyn and the rest of the expedition staff in the lounge for a fun and enlightening icebreaker game that really made us aware of ‘Who was who?’ amongst us. It was a good day and we went to bed anticipating what the next days would bring.

Yesterday feels like a dream – Fair Isle was absolutely magical but the evening at sea was a bit rough. We all knew, however, that the northern seas are swelly and we accepted this part of the adventure. When we woke up in the morning the sea was already calmer, giving a sense of relief to many of us. Feeling the gentle sway of the ship we made our way north. Today, we're all buzzing with anticipation as we head towards Jan Mayen, a place many of us have dreamt of visiting for ages.

The day started with a delicious buffet breakfast, fueling us up for what turned out to be a surprisingly engaging day at sea, even without a land excursion. The expedition team kicked things off with an invitation to the lounge for a lecture by one of our guides, Andi, who taught us how to identify whales and dolphins we might encounter during our journey.

Later, Jakub captivated us with his "Amazing Water" lecture in the Observation Lounge. Who knew water could be so fascinating? He truly brought out the incredible physical properties of it. Then, Peter Prokosh, a renown bird expert among the birder’s community, shared his insights on the East Atlantic Flyway of Coastal Birds, which really tied into our earlier bird sightings. Meanwhile the birders on board were patrolling the sky looking for birds and they noted different species of skuas, guillemots and gulls, among many others. It's amazing to see their passion!

The expedition team then held a recap in the bar, which was a great opportunity to chat and share our experiences. The day wrapped up with a lovely plated dinner, followed by daily wildlife listing with Meike and Paolo. Even though it was a day at sea with no landings, it was packed with learning opportunities and the sheer joy of being out at sea. As Columbus wisely said, "You can never cross the ocean until you have the courage to lose sight of the shore." And what an incredible ocean it is! We can't wait to see what tomorrow brings as we get closer to Jan Mayen!

As a rule, days spent at sea rarely leave vivid memories — neither in the hearts of cruise ship passengers, nor, once upon a time, in the hearts of brave seafarers who risked their lives setting out on wind-driven wooden sailboats to explore the distant corners of our planet. On such days, the ship simply follows its set course, swaying on the waves and resisting gusts of wind that try either to slow it down or hasten its journey.

Nevertheless, early in the morning, while everyone was still asleep, an event occurred that divided the lives of some passengers into a “before” and “after”: unnoticed by all, the Hondius crossed the Arctic Circle — an imaginary line of great astronomical significance. From this point northward, one can observe phenomena such as the Midnight Sun in summer and Polar Night in winter. Not all of us had previously been beyond the Arctic Circle. But as of today, we can all be proud of this achievement and casually drop this fun fact into a conversation:

- You know, when I was beyond the Arctic Circle...
- You were where? Wow! Can you tell us more? That sounds amazing!

After breakfast, Chris, our expedition leader, gathered us in the observation lounge for a mandatory briefing on polar bear safety. After all, we were officially in the Arctic now, and exciting landings awaited us. It was important to review the safety guidelines — so as not to get eaten by accident.

That wasn’t the end of the morning program. Sven, one of our geographers, invited us to his lecture on the geology and tectonics of Jan Mayen Island, which we were heading towards and hoped to reach the following day.

Before we knew it, it was lunchtime, and we, feeling like true polar explorers, gathered in the restaurant to refuel.

At 3:00 PM, we were asked to set our clocks one hour forward. Scotland — and its time zone — was behind us, and ahead lay Spitsbergen, which runs on time aligned with its longitude. For us, this primarily meant one less hour of sleep that night. No big deal — we’ll sleep when we’re dead!

The Hondius continued its journey northward through the whimsical waters of the Atlantic Ocean. The swell was picking up. Some of us even started to feel the early signs of seasickness. Still, at 4:15 PM we all gathered again in the observation lounge for Meike’s lecture on the history of Jan Mayen’s discovery. Shortly before the lecture began, Ralf, our head chef, surprised us with a cake — made in collaboration with our pastry chef — to celebrate our crossing of the Arctic Circle.

Before dinner, we had our daily recap, during which Chris explained the details of our upcoming landing on Jan Mayen Island. After dinner, we all headed back to our cabins to prepare for the next day and rest.

This morning brought an air of excitement as Hondius sailed towards the mysterious island of Jan Mayen. Low clouds hung over the sea, limiting our view of the Beerenberg — the world’s northernmost active volcano. Still, the island gradually emerged through the mist, and with it came signs of life. Little Auks made their first appearance of the trip, small flocks flying past the bow, along with an Artic Skua and the occasional dark-morph Northern Fulmar among the usual pale ones. Several Brünnich’s Guillemots were also seen , getting closer to the Arctic Circle.

As the coastline drew closer, the sea conditions looked better than expected, once the gangway was opened the waves flowed right into the ship, so we had to wait a little while to try again. Sure enough, the good news came during breakfast, the Bridgeteam and Chris out EL gave green light. Zodiac operations went smoothly, and not long after, we stepped ashore onto the black volcanic sands of Jan Mayen.

We hiked inland toward one of the island’s great wildlife spectacles — a colony of Little Auks. After a short walk along a ridge and down toward the colony, we settled in and simply sat. In silence, we listened to the birds. Groups of up to 50 little auks flew by overhead, landing on nearby rocks with their characteristic trills and chatters filling the air. Sitting quietly also brought a new awareness of the ground beneath us — the rocks were dotted with tiny, intricate lichens and soft mosses, a surprising abundance of life in such a stark place.

On a hill facing the beach where we landed this morning a memorial stone stood quietly in remembrance of the seven Dutchmen who attempted to overwinter here in 1634 but didn’t survive. This island carries over 400 years of Dutch history, discovered and mapped by Dutch sailors in 1614 during their search for new whaling grounds. The landscape was striking with dark rocky soil, sparse vegetation, and dramatic ridgelines. Scattered driftwood and weathered whale bones gave the beach a wild, historic feel.

Our return walk took us along the black-sand beach with over 2000 Nortern Fulmars sitting on the waters close to the beach.

Back on board, we were greeted as always by a delicious lunch prepared by chef Ralf and his galley team, a welcome comfort after a morning in the raw Arctic air.

In the afternoon, we sailed northwest through thick fog. Onboard, Tiffany gave an informative and engaging lecture on the Pinnipeds of the North, introducing us to the seals we might encounter during the rest of our voyage.

As the day came to a close, the daily recap brought everyone back together to reflect on our Jan Mayen experience. Later in the evening, Meike hosted her popular wildlife listing session in the lecture room, where we shared photos, sightings, and stories from recent days. A highlight was the news about the ringed Great Auk on Fair Isle — confirmed to be five years old.

It was a full day, rich with history, nature, and shared moments. Our landing on Jan Mayen — remote, stark, and beautiful — will be one to remember.

What an incredible day we had today, Day 8 of our Arctic adventure! We woke up around 07:30, and the ship was already surrounded by the most breathtaking sea ice, having entered it early in the morning, north of Jan Mayen. The sheer scale and beauty of it were just mesmerizing!

We enjoyed a hearty buffet breakfast before eagerly heading out onto the decks, the bridge, and the bow, binoculars in hand, ready to spot some Arctic wildlife. The expedition team encouraged us to keep a keen eye out, promising announcements for any close sightings. It was a truly unique experience, gliding through the icy landscape, everyone bundled up and scanning the horizon. We were thrilled to catch glimpses of some birds, a real highlight for many of us, especially the keen birders on board!

Later in the day, we gathered for insightful lectures. Jakub broadened our understanding of the fascinating world of Arctic sea ice, which was particularly relevant given our current surroundings. It was great to learn more about the environment we were exploring.

For lunch, we indulged in another delicious buffet in the Dining Room, recharging after our morning's wildlife vigil.

As the day drew to a close, we joined the Expedition Team in the Observation Lounge for our daily recap, sharing stories and reflecting on the day's incredible sights.

The grand finale was a fantastic BBQ dinner served right on the back of Deck 5! It was such a memorable way to end a day spent immersed in the stunning frozen wilderness.

We certainly felt like true explorers today, constantly learning and marveling at the wonders of the Arctic sea ice! What an unforgettable experience!

We were gently woken up at 07:45 by our Expedition leader Chris’ voice over the ship’s intercom, reminding us that we had another full day to explore the Arctic pack ice. Spirits were high—this was prime polar bear territory, and anticipation was thick in the air. The ice had drifted further west overnight, so Hondius adjusted course, slicing gracefully through the frozen expanse to reach the shifting edge.

Binoculars became extensions of our faces as we scanned the infinite, undulating whiteness. Every shadow, every mound of snow could be something. And then—it happened. A flicker of movement against the sky. Not the bear we had all been hoping for, but a different kind of Arctic treasure: the elusive ivory gull.

First one, then another, and another. They circled and swooped with ghostly elegance, pristine white birds against a backdrop of endless white and pale blue. Their black legs and dark eyes stood out starkly against their snowy plumage, and their sharp beaks hinted at their opportunistic, scavenging nature. For some of us, seasoned birders and first-timers alike, this moment alone made the day unforgettable.

After a warm lunch, we returned to the decks, scanning with renewed purpose. The bear remained elusive, but a brief thrill came when someone shouted, “Whale fluke!” We rushed to the railings, hearts pounding, but the creature had vanished beneath the ice. Still, we clung to the excitement.

As a perfect pick-me-up, the hotel team served steaming hot chocolate at the aft of the ship. With mittens wrapped around mugs and smiles shared between sips, we soaked in the Arctic stillness. Later, another whale surfaced briefly, but it too slipped away quickly—skittish, shy, or perhaps just indifferent to our awe.

In the quiet of the afternoon, some of us attended Paolo’s fascinating lecture on the history of North Pole expeditions—tales of courage and frostbite—and later we were drawn to Tiphanie’s talk on whale adaptations, learning how blubber, echolocation, and migration patterns all come into play in these extreme latitudes.

By evening, as Hondius gently eased out of the ice and back into open waters, we gathered in the lounge for a light-hearted trivia quiz with Brenya. Laughter and friendly competition filled the room, a perfect close to a day of searching, learning, and Arctic wonder.

No polar bear today—but the ice had still given us magic.

What a nice morning to wake up to – out of the weather system with all its rain, snow, strong winds and variable visibility! Definitely a perfect day for spotting wildlife, whether it was the feathered ones or the bigger ones living in the ocean. It didn’t last that long before the first calls came on the PA-system, that whale blows were spotted on the horizon, and people gathered at the bridge and outside decks, carrying binoculars and cameras to see and capture the moment when Hondius passed the whales. At least two groups of Northern Bottlenose Whales were spotted – one of them passing so close to the ship, that a slight turn was made to ensure that we didn’t get too close to them. What a start of the day!

This morning also brought two interesting lectures. Our “guest lecturer”, Peter Prokosch brought the lecture of his vision of the Arctic 2052 – a vision of the Arctic, where science can be made peacefully among the Arctic countries, the pristinity of Arctic preserved with a minimum of pollution and human influence in mining for minerals or oil. A vision that we can all hope for will come true!

Then Jakub and Rose shared the lecture about the geology of Svalbard – the many different types of rocks seen in the archipelago, the glaciers and their “life”, and how the permafrost can create interesting structures in the gravel. Was it pancake or pizza-shaped?!

During lunch, more whales were spotted – and a couple of rare, flying visitors were also seen – the whimbrel and the long tailed skua – there was something for everyone to see.

In the afternoon the visibility dropped as we entered some quite dense snow showers, but it gave a perfect opportunity to attend Sasha’s lecture about his younger years and his 5 years as guide in the Russian ghost mining town, Pyramiden.

An interesting trip through the history of the town, and all the wildlife that could be seen there.

After our dinner it was time to do the last wildlife list with some of the animals – swimming and flying – we saw today. Tomorrow we set foot on Svalbard!

Early in the morning, we arrive in Spitsbergen, reaching the final destination of our journey. The sea is calm, and visibility is excellent. Many of us have been up since dawn, hoping to spot polar bears along the coast or simply enjoying the stunning view of the snow-covered mountains of Prins Karls Forland, stretching out along the west coast of Spitsbergen. However, we don’t spot any polar bears—those many white dots all turn out to be reindeer.

As planned, we make a landing at Poolepynten. Named after the English whaling pioneer Jonas Poole, who visited Spitsbergen several times in the early 17th century, Poolepynten is well known as a haul-out site for walruses.

While we are still having breakfast, Hondius drops anchor and our guides head ashore to scout and secure the landing site. Shortly after, we follow them ashore in small groups and slowly approach the walruses. Walking in a line, we advance carefully so that the animals notice us without being startled. We get as close as 60 meters to a group of around 20 walruses and are able to observe them in peace and quiet.

On our way back to the Zodiacs, our guides share more fascinating facts about the walruses. They explain how the large amounts of driftwood made their way from the Russian Arctic, across the polar sea, to Svalbard, and provide further insights into the region’s natural history. Back on board, we listen to a lecture by Meike—the same one already attended by the second group that went ashore.

During lunch, Hondius crosses the Forlandsundet and enters St. Jonsfjorden. Spring has only just begun in Svalbard, and the end of the fjord is still covered in sea ice. Hondius anchors off Gjertsenodden.

Here, we all go ashore together and divide into four groups. At the shore stands a small cabin built by one of Spitsbergen’s last polar bear hunters, Per Johansson—though it was never used for hunting, only for recreation.

The fast and medium hiking groups climb the lateral moraine of Gaffelbreen and are rewarded with a spectacular view of the glacier and the bay in front of it, which is still covered in ice. The Norwegian name “Gaffelbreen” translates to “Fork Glacier.”

The return route leads us through gentle tundra, where we are amazed by the variety of wildlife we encounter. We spot Svalbard Rock Ptarmigans still in their winter plumage, Arctic Skuas, Snow Buntings, a few Ringed Seals in the distance, and several reindeer up close. Some of us even witness the birth of a reindeer calf.

Back on board, we raise a glass with the captain to celebrate a wonderful and successful journey. What a time it has been—what an experience! An adventure we will never forget. After a delicious dinner from Ralph’s galley, it’s time to pack our bags, download our photos and the slideshow, and gather for one final toast to this unforgettable trip in the bar.

As the first light of dawn breaks over the Arctic, we arrive in Longyearbyen. While we savor a final breakfast aboard the Hondius, our suitcases quietly make their way ashore. The moment of disembarkation is bittersweet—saying goodbye to this ship, our floating sanctuary, feels like parting with an old friend. For days, the Hondius has been our warm and welcoming haven in the vast, wild expanse of the polar world.

Together, we’ve witnessed wonders few ever glimpse—rare wildlife, pristine landscapes, and moments so breathtaking they will forever live in our hearts. We've forged bonds, shared laughter, awe, and discovery. Now, we carry those memories with us as we return home, changed by the magic of this extraordinary voyage.

Thank you for joining us on this incredible journey—for your curiosity, your camaraderie, and your spirit of adventure. We part ways for now, but we sincerely hope our paths cross again, somewhere out there in the great, wide world.